.........Two days later, back in Tehran, we attended a party at an apartment owned by a man named Ali, a friend of Abbas. We ate various fruits and discussed the state of adventure, such as it was, in Iran. The whole concept of the recreational use of the backcountry was so new in Iran that the men present liked to joke that they had fathered the entire idea. Abbas was "the father of Iranian climbing." Shahram was the "father of Iranian telemarking." A man named Kazem Bayram, whom I knew to be one of the best breath-hold divers in the world, was the "father of Iranian diving." Ali's wife, who was scarfless and dressed in a sleeveless blouse—women are required to cover up only in public—said that she was the "father of sitting around worrying about these idiots when they're gone."